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J-BEAUTY: KEY APPROACHES TO FACE CARE

The mission of Kao Chemicals Europe is to strive for the wholehearted satisfaction and enrichment of the lives of people globally and to contribute to the sustainability of society. Following our mission, we would like to approach J-Beauty trend to Western lifestyle, providing a Japanese skincare routine with high-quality products in four streamlined steps. Rooted in ancient wisdom, a Japanese double-cleansing and double-moisturizing routine enhances the skin’s health and beauty. Building on the two-step cleansing routine, Japanese women in the late 19th century began double-moisturizing, first with «beauty waters» to renew and prepare skin to absorb moisture and second with a deeply hydrating moisturizer.

Kao Chemicals Europe, continuing the development of the J-Beaty concept, introduces a Japanese skin care routine in four simple steps. The traditional Japanese skin care ritual consists of double cleansing and double moisturizing. Such basic care can significantly improve the condition of the skin with systematic use.

DOUBLE CLEAR

STEP 1: Precleaning

In Japan, cleansing is highlighted as a key step in maintaining healthy skin. To remove makeup and impurities, it is customary to first cleanse the face with a mild cleansing oil. This C-331 Natural Cleansing Oil formula based on RHEODOL 430V (INCI: Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate) turns into a weightless milky texture upon contact with water and helps to cleanse the skin.

Developing a formula like this is usually easy due to the high compatibility of Rheodol 430V with many types of oils. Recommended input:

10-15%. RheodoL 430V shows good emulsification and solubilization of various polar esters and vegetable oils.

STEP 2: Cleanup

Further use of the foam cleanser helps remove any remaining dirt and completes the cleansing step. C-343 Mild Foaming Foam forms a rich, creamy lather based on Akypo® FOAM LM 25 (INCI: Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate) that cleanses the skin without negatively affecting hydration levels. Akypo® FOAM LM 25 provides an unrivaled creamy foam texture with very small bubbles for a smooth feel during application. Another key benefit of this exceptional creamy lather is its stability, which allows for a more comfortable distribution (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1 Sensory panel testing.
Standard formulation based on SLES, CAPB and Cocamide DEA.
Application: 2 pumps on the foam dispenser. Statistically
significant result (ANOVA-1way; p < 0.05)

DOUBLE MOISTURIZING

STEP 3: Premoisten

Using a hydrating toner before applying cream prepares the skin for better moisture absorption. C-344 Deep Hydration Spray is an easily absorbed liquid with the active ingredient Exceparl IS-CE-A (INCI: Cholesteryl Isostearate). Exceparl IS-CE-A is a cholesterol ester, one of the structural components of intercellular lipids, which plays a key role in maintaining moisture in the skin. Levenol C-201B is a plant based nonionic surfactant with a better ecotoxicological profile than conventional nonionic surfactants.

Its solubilizing power allows Exceparl IS-CE-A to be incorporated into the aqueous phase while improving the smooth feel after application. The pre-moisture step increases the moisturizing efficiency of C-323 cream to 49% and 64% at 3 and 5 hours after use, respectively (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2Moisturizing boost from C-323 cream with C-344 spray or no pre-moisture step

STEP 4: Moisturizing

Nourishment and hydration are essential for both dry and oily skin types. At the final stage of care, a moisturizing cream is applied to form a protective barrier. Cream C-323 Rich & Fresh is a rich W/O emulsion with Penetol GE-IS (INCI: Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether) emulsifier. This emulsifier can stabilize W/O emulsions with high water content by forming inverted hexagonal liquid crystals. These inverse emulsions spread easily due to their high water content and provide a high moisture feel without leaving a greasy feeling.

Emulsion spreadability was measured with a texture analyzer. This parameter correlates with the force required to obtain a given deformation. A higher peak value on the graph indicates a product that has less spreadability. Conversely, a lower peak value indicates a more spreadable sample. The C-323 formulation based on Penetol GE-IS shows easier spreading than the O/W straight type emulsion (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3 Assessing the spreadability of two types of moisturizers

Using high-quality ingredients from Kao Chemicals Europe’s Skin care line, you can create a self-sustaining basic skin care line that can be marketed in both J-Beauty and K -Beauty.

Yulia Popova, Head of Technical Support at Revada LLC

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