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NEW ACTIVE INGREDIENTS from Solabia Group

Solabia Group proposed during In-Cosmetics Global 2019 the following novelties: – Saniscalp® is an active ingredient obtained from passion fruit seeds, Passiflora Edulis, fighting against the sensitivity and imbalances of the scalp as well as disgraceful dandruff. – 3Dermilyn® is an active ingredient obtained from plantain seeds, Plantago lanceolate, grown in France. Combining sensoriality and effectiveness, 3Dermilyn® restores the youthfulness of the skin through a complex mechanism.

SANISCALP® Hair, like skin, is exposed to daily environmental aggressors. These and other factors, such as hair coloring, heat, lead to an imbalance in the microbiota of the scalp, irritation, inflammation and dandruff. About 50% of the adult population and young people do not pay due attention to the scalp and suffer from dandruff. The new active ingredient from Solabia Group – Saniscalp® is designed to fight the sensitivity and imbalance of the scalp, as well as dandruff. Saniscalp® is an active ingredient derived from the seeds of Passiflora Edulis passion fruit and enriched with picetannol dimer through enzymatic bioconversion, which enhances the biological activity of the polyphenol. Saniscalp® has a wide range of scalp-enhancing properties:

– soothes a weakened scalp by reducing the release of inflammatory mediators;

– improves the condition of the scalp by regulating the cell turnover of the epidermis to eliminate excessive flaking;

– Enhances the scalp’s natural defenses by regulating the microbiota.

In testing, Saniscalp® has been shown to significantly, at 79%, protect cells exposed to infrared radiation. This helps to protect the scalp from heat when using a hair dryer, curling iron, prolonged exposure to the sun (Fig. 1).

In addition, hair is often dyed, nowadays it is not only a way to hide gray hair, but also self-expression. Most modern hair dyes contain paraphenylenediamine (PPD), which makes it easier for pigments to penetrate the hair for a longer lasting color effect. But at the same time, this compound can often be the cause of an allergic reaction, which can be accompanied by itching, redness, and dandruff. In tests, Saniscalp® has been shown to have a preventive effect (significantly reduces the release of IL-18) when used prior to coloring. This protects the scalp from chemical stress and inflammation caused by hair coloring, and also helps to repair the scalp from chemical stress and soothe after hair coloring (Fig. 2).

Saniscalp® allows you to resynchronize cellular renewal by influencing the coordination of epidermal proliferation and differentiation processes, helping to increase the production of the skin’s own antimicrobial peptides, restoring the skin’s natural barrier.

As a result, Saniscalp® significantly reduces dandruff, leaving the scalp looking healthier and clearer (Figure 3).

Fig. 1 Protection against physical stress caused by infrared radiation

Fig. 2 Restoring effect on the scalp after exposure to PPD (staining)

Fig. 3 Estimation of dandruff intensity

3DERMILYN®

The aging process is inevitable, but being attractive at any age has become the goal of modern women. Today, feeling harmonious is more important than trying to hide every little wrinkle. Moreover, it has been proven that happiness is clearly reflected in the face: happy people look younger. Conversely, stress is one of the many factors that accelerate skin aging. Indeed, stress increases the amount of free radicals that attack healthy cells and destroy the structure of the skin. Thus, loss of elasticity and volume of facial tissues are visible signs of these disorders. In addition, stress provokes special facial expressions (for example, furrowed eyebrows), which, repeated, lead to the fact that creases in the skin remain visible forever. A better understanding of the existing links between stress and aging today opens up new perspectives and makes it possible to act on the signs of aging before they appear.

Combining positive perception and effectiveness, 3Dermilyn® restores youthful skin through a complex mechanism. It is an active ingredient derived from Plantain yang, grown in France and used since ancient times. Thanks to its emollient and soothing properties, as well as the richness of mucus, it stimulates key proteins involved in the formation of the collagen network and elastic fibers of the dermis. 3Dermilyn® restores the upper layers of the skin, enhancing the synthesis of epidermal hyaluronic acid (Fig. 4). In addition, 3Dermilyn® visibly improves the appearance of the skin by reducing skin inflammation and significantly increasing the release of serotonin and dopamine, also called happiness molecules. With age, subcutaneous fat tends to migrate downwards. The cheekbones fall, the cheeks droop, nasolabial folds and jowls appear, breaking the contours of the face. These visible signs are the result of a gradual increase in positive and negative volumes (Fig. 5). Their correction, along with the reduction of wrinkles, is an important step in restoring harmony and youthfulness of the face (Fig. 6, 7).

Thus, 3Dermilyn® allows you to take care of your skin, fight wrinkles and visible signs of aging both at the first signs (up to 25 years old) and at a more mature age.</p >

The new herbal ingredients presented at in-cosmetics Global 2019 meet the latest market trends and allow you to solve the problems of the face and head skin with high efficiency.

Fig. 4 Increased expression of hyaluronic acid

5 Positive and negative volumes

Fig. 6 Wrinkle reduction

Fig. 7 Remodeling of facial contours

Natalya Novikova, Technical and Consulting Support Specialist, Revada LLC

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